First Month Abroad

Somehow it has been (a little over) one month since classes started this semester. Time has been moving fast. Here is a recap, I’m gonna put some things in bold in case you just want to skim, hah, I don’t blame you.

Overview:

Here are the classes I’m taking this semester:

Rome as Spectacle– scheduled mostly on Monday and Friday (sometimes one, sometimes both) which is a class comprised of 4 hour long walking tours with the very occasional in-studio lecture. I’d say that this is the ‘main course’ as far as the historical education part of the semester is concerned. We get these little tour guide headsets each class which I don’t think I have never used before, but they are wonderful since we are always walking in large groups and otherwise it would be impossible to hear the professor.

History of Modern Italian Architecture– comprised of mostly-weekly Monday lectures (and soon will be relevant on some of our field trips). I have found that it is overlapping a bit with the Legacy of Roman Form class from last semester, but I think is branching out more as the weeks progress.

Italian 2- on Monday and Friday (and now it seems to be on Monday and Wednesday- in case you couldn’t tell, the classes kind of change each week but there are patterns that emerge). It is a step-up in difficulty from last semester, I feel somewhat unprepared.

Drawing– 3 hour-long class on Tuesday typically (or Wednesday for some people- I think I like having it on Tuesday) where we go out into the city and draw in various places, up to 2 locations per class so far. We use giant A3 size sketchpads which are a hassle to tote around, and we aren’t always sketching somewhere that has places to sit so we have to hold them in one hand. Weather is also an important variable, it is a challenge to draw in the shade at 9am and your hand is going numb, also a bit of a problem when your assignment is to draw shadows but it is an overcast drizzly day. But overall it has been a fun class bringing me back to my middle or high school art class days, refreshing honestly. Can’t say I am the best but I am improving.

Design (of course, as always)- Biggest noticeable difference is that design class is scheduled on Tuesday and Thursday each week, instead of Monday and Thursday. This makes it so you feel a little less guilty doing things on the weekend (well for two reasons, because you have an ‘extra day’ [even though you have class all day Monday] to do design work, and also you’re studying abroad- might as well explore with what little ‘free’ time we have) but also makes the distance between the Tuesday and Thursday class more intense for getting things done. So Pros and Cons.

Urban Studies– Class that typically falls on a Wednesday but also ties in to other walking tours we take on Fridays. This is another class involving the history of Rome, though it is more chronological and is more focused in on the time periods of which things were built. We compile all of our notes, photos, and sketches into a collage for each time period which is a nice change in pace from our Urban Genealogies class from last semester that wanted more polished drawings.

Also each week we have mandatory covid testing in the studio, which is good for everyone’s safety since we are always so close together during class, and convenient that we don’t have to seek out a test ourselves.

Here is what the studio looks like, the inside and some views from the windows:

There might be less resources as far as printing and model-making go as compared to the Brooklyn campus, but after being online for an entire year, that is not much of a problem.

I think it is starting to wane, but in the first few weeks it felt like a summer camp or something (probably a similar feeling to when I was participating in first year orientation in 2018, living on my own for the first time, albeit in a dorm, in New York). Like we have the closeness of campers who are all in unfamiliar territory (and thus we are more inclined to hang out with one another, sometimes with people we didn’t interact with often back in Brooklyn) and who all have the same classes and schedule.

January 17-23rd:

First week of class!

In this first week it was all about introducing the classes. For Drawing we went into the Santa Maria in Trastevere church near studio (as shown in a previous photo from the studio’s window). Design class had us go and investigate several possible precedents. Under the instruction that the precedents had to be visited between the Tuesday and Thursday class, I walked 45 minutes to the Baths of Diocletian by myself on Wednesday and went to the basically-empty museum when it opened at 2pm. And then visited Trajan’s Market in the rain at 9:30am the next day when it opened. And then during design class in the afternoon… we ended up going to the Baths of Diocletian anyway, impromptu. This time we got in for free (gah I paid for the first time). There I go, walking 45 minutes back and forth again. Also had the ‘Welcome Dinner’ on Wednesday which felt fancy since it was served in courses. Tried wine for the first time (meh), as well as tiramisu (pretty good!).

On Saturday, I went to the Bramante Cloister for a drawing assignment. Then got invited to have a great homemade dinner on Saturday at two of my professors’ apartment alongside some of my classmates (they have been running/teaching in the program for many years and each semester make dinner for the students). Tried pistachio ice cream for the first time (at least that I know of), and there was also panna flavored ice cream- delicious (and now I am on the hunt for panna [literally means cream] flavored things).

On Sunday a few classmates and I went to Ostia Antica via the metro. It’s a huge archeological site that “should be as popular as Pompeii,” said my Rome as Spectacle professor upon hearing that we had visited. Pretty cool! I love seeing tiles and mosaics that are still intact. Having ruins with flooring just helps my mind see it more easily as a building that once was.

January 24-30th:

Visited Vatican City once again for the Rome as Spectacle class on Monday. Went into St. Peter’s Basilica. I am trying my best to appreciate the fact that the places we go aren’t as busy as usual, though I won’t really be able to appreciate it fully until I see just how dense it gets (also seeing photos of these places crowded pre-covid is enlightening).

Then on Tuesday drew in Piazza della Minerva (freezing cold in the shade), and Piazza Navona (much better temperature in the sun). Urban Studies on Wednesday had us walk around Campus Martius/Field of Mars and Forum Boarium. Got a really good panini at L’Antica Salumeria (and thus my love of sandwiches has been revitalized).

Thursday, went to Trajan’s Market again, this time to photograph more intently the doorways. Also went to the grocery store- I really like grocery shopping here, it is always interesting what I can find. On this occasion I tried Smarties, which are chocolate as compared to the American candy of the same name, and not very good chocolate at that (at least to my American taste buds), would not recommend.

On Friday classmates and I had to perform in Italian a small scene from Rigoletto- this will be forever imprinted in my mind whenever Mantova is mentioned. Also bought an Italian SIM card, here’s hoping it works as I need it until May.

Then on Saturday I took a daytrip to Pisa! It isn’t on the itinerary for any of the school field trips, and got invited by a group of classmates to go, so I figured I should take advantage of the “free” time I have before design kicks into higher gear. Left home about 6:30am, then travelled to the train station, and went on my first fancy high speed train, arriving around 10am. It was definitely a touristy area. We mostly stuck around the Leaning Tower, and paid to go to the surrounding museums/buildings and climb the tower right before the sunset which provided pretty views from the top. It wasn’t too bad of a climb, just very narrow and a few slippery stairs here and there. Got back home around 12:20am.

On Sunday I went to Trajan’s Market for the third time, paying like always, just to learn that apparently architecture students can get into free (gahhhhhhhhhhhh). There goes 30 euros from all my visits. We went to get more photos for photogrammetry scans for design class. I mean, at least each time I visit I see something new. Also got sideswiped in the face by a pigeon. It was just not my day.

January 31- February 6th:

Walked about 40 minutes all the way to the Vatican Museums for the Rome as Spectacle class. Saw most notably the Sistine Chapel and the School of Athens frescos, as well as a bunch of priceless works of art that I am sure I don’t know the names of. Weird seeing things that I have only ever seen in prints or photos, now in real life. Like closing a gap or something, seeing how big something is, in full context (can relate this to seeing Starry Night in the MoMA). Also broke my glasses in the museum agh, part of the rim chipped. They always fall off my face because of my mask, since they don’t rest properly on my nose. The glasses are still useable (and I brought a spare pair), but I really liked those frames so I’m bummed. Then right after the museum had a 2 hour lecture. Exhausting day.

Tuesday was hourly comic day, so I documented my day hour-by-hour as per tradition, though it was a pretty chill day of just Drawing and Design class. Wednesday was a lecture about the Pantheon, then walked there afterward and got yet another panini. Thursday was a design day, also bought some snacks afterwards from the grocery store.

Friday, February 4th, was my 22nd birthday! It was also the start of the Florence field trip. Woke up 6am to walk all the way to the train station. The train ride was about an hour and a half, then we dove right into Rome as Spectacle class as we were hauling our luggage to the hotel. Didn’t get a chance to rest and just dropped off our bags, and continued class until 2pm. Saw the Baptistery and Cathedral. The off-white walls of the Cathedral with just the dome painted…. ah, chef’s kiss, it was a breath of fresh air. Don’t get me wrong, St. Peter’s Basilica is beautiful and ornate, but a lot to take in. Overwhelming. But the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore was a nice balance. The exterior too was great with the different colors of marble- green and pink surprisingly working together, in patterns pleasing to the eye. And the reddish dome is iconic, of course. During the coffee break I got a chocolate filled doughnut of sorts at Caffè Gilli, which is 43 years older than the United States, just funny to me. After lunch we went to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. I really thought the museum design was great, recreating the façade of the Cathedral with the original statues on the inside of the museum. I took a class about the history of museums last year which also touched on the design of museums, so I am just living it up honestly. Then went to the Basilica di Santa Croce, which houses the tombs of Machiavelli (we meet again), Galileo, and Michelangelo. Afterwards we finally got to go inside the hotel and unwind. Went to dinner at 7:30- finally got to celebrate my birthday a little bit! Got really good ravioli, tried truffles for the first time in the form of truffle fries (verdict- not bad. don’t completely get the hype though), and got a ‘flourless’ chocolate cake slice with cream cheese pudding and a birthday candle (delicious!).

Saturday was day 2 of Florence. Went to the Hospital of the Innocents (just the outside) and had time to sketch. Went into the La Basilica di San Lorenzo, which had interesting museum exhibit going on with wax guts of people and animals. Then Museo delle Cappelle Medicee, with the Medici Chapels. Loved the stone inlays in the The Chapel of the Princes. Looking up felt like a kaleidoscope. The New Sacristy by Michelangelo was also cool to see, especially since we were just talking about it in lecture the other day. I liked the depictions of Dawn, Dusk, Night, and Day. Got a really good panini from Dal Vinaio. Walked around the Piazza della Signoria, Piazzale degli Uffizi, went across the Ponte Vecchio (so cool), went into several churches along the way. Also the sun finally came out! It had been overcast and drizzly up until the afternoon. Could finally see some natural light flooding into the churches. After class concluded, got some free gelato courtesy of one of the Pratt staff who heard it had been my birthday. It was so kind of her, also I got sung happy birthday to in Italian. Then a couple hours later me and some classmates went to a restaurant for dinner that was recommended to us by the professors the day before, and surprise surprise, the professors were also there for dinner.

Sunday was the last day of Florence, and also the only day without class. Went to the Galleria Palatina and Galleria d’Arte Moderna at the Pitti Palace right when they opened. I just wish it had more furniture still in place, which would also better indicate the usage of each room. I love love love house museums where I can imagine living in them (not that I would ever be so rich), but this was definitely more of a gallery, though with the paintings still in their palace style organization stacked on the wall (also talked about in my museum class last year) it was still cool to see. Had a nice sit-down lunch in the Piazza della Signoria. Went window shopping for a little bit to wait before our timed entry to Brunelleschi’s Dome! I was kind of anxious all day since I heard that it was difficult, but luckily it didn’t trigger any vertigo or claustrophobia in me. There were like 400 or so steps, many spiraling in a tight space, some in between the two layers of the dome so the walls are sloped. At the top there was a great view, it completely blows away the view from the weekend before at Pisa. Afterwards grabbed some gelato before getting luggage and making it back to the train station. Got back to Rome around 7:30pm and walked home all the way from the train station. Long, but good weekend! Probably one of my most interesting birthdays, that is for sure.

February 7-13th:

Had another Rome as Spectacle walking tour right off the bat on Monday morning, this time back in Rome about Palaces and Villas. We went by several and into Villa Farnesina. One of the first rooms was being restored so got to peek and see some restoration work which was cool. Had a cheeseburger for lunch to add some variety into my diet. Then on Tuesday we went to the Temple of Hercules for drawing class, it was an ideal drawing spot with sunlight and benches, as long as we ignored the sound of the grass being mowed right by us. Went to the grocery store after design class, this time trying out their take on chicken nuggets, or as it was directly translated “morsels of breaded chicken”. Not bad. Wednesday was a Medieval walking tour for Urban Studies class, though not a whole lot remains in its medieval form in Rome. Thursday was mostly spent working on design and in design class. Friday was a very long day, with us walking essentially from 9 to 5pm. We continued the Rome as Spectacle class with more Villa and Gardens, taking a bus to Villa Giulia. Didn’t go inside the museum part but walked around the courtyard. Then went on a tram to the Porta Maggiore for another walking tour around the Esquiline Hill. Ended the day with a nice meal at a restaurant (Popi Popi- another professor recommendation) and tried a fried artichoke for the first time, actually delicious.

Saturday we got to celebrate my roommate’s birthday by going to Villa Borghese. We walked there starting at around 7am- early morning. We started at the end of the museum and worked our way back to avoid the crowd. Really wonderful art there, and it felt like we had kind of been transported away from the city. Went on a row boat for the first time and stumbled upon an overlook to Piazza del Popolo. From there we walked down the hill and walked down a Tridente road to our lunch location.

February 14-20th:

Monday was a walking tour starting at Michelangelo’s Campidoglio Piazza. Went into a couple of churches including Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli and Santa Maria Maggiore. The middle of the week was pretty typical class in studio. On Friday afternoon we had a class walking tour beginning at Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano, and ending at Circus Maximus. We covered a lot of Renaissance buildings out and about, also fragments of aqueducts and the Aurelian wall on the Caelian Hill. I think one of the coolest churches we’ve seen so far has been Santo Stefano Rotondo. I just loved how they kept swatches of the old floor revealed, and I liked the centralized floor plan.

On Saturday I took a walk by myself up to Villa Doria Pamphili and went around the park and some nature trails (got my steps in for the Pikmin Bloom community day hehe).

To conclude, here are some miscellaneous reflections so far-
In some ways I am overwhelmed by both living in the moment while also trying to document everything (through various mediums- photographs, drawing, writing, taking notes). This is something I know I will be asked about until the end of time (okay, slight exaggeration but I still ask my mom about her brief study abroad travels in the 1980’s) and as I draw and write I think of myself in the future looking back at these things. I am living in my memory as I am making it.

This is kind of what I hoped first year would be like, as far as the history classes go. How I would have loved to take walking tours around New York every week- I only remember going on one as part of a class. Though the dynamic I think has shifted here, allowing us to take more time taking these walking tours- design instead of being the dominant class has kind of stepped back (at least for now) and let the other classes breathe as well. Also New York weather is less pleasurable during a big chunk of when classes are in session in late fall/winter/early spring. But I still think I would have liked my first year classes to engage the city a bit more, or even going on slightly longer field trips to nearby cities. We are surrounded by historical and interesting buildings in the northeast but hardly go out and see them.

Lastly, this is definitely the most I’ve consistently walked in my entire life. I’m averaging around 10,000 steps a day, and some days I get in over 20,000. I’ve never had so many blisters haha but I do think I’m also eating better, and more for each meal. So I’m interested in seeing how I go back to my more sedentary lifestyle at home or New York.

So that has been my first month of classes so far! I have been so busy and have learned and seen so much already. Now I actually have to take my first midterms this upcoming week, gah.

In the next month we are going on a field trip up North for a week, followed directly by Spring Break. I currently have no plans for Spring Break but I am sure I will find something to do or somewhere to go.

Thanks as always for reading!